Haryana is quite famous for its woven work be it shawls durries robes or lungis. The Haryana shawl is known as Phulkari . Can anyone tell me more about this kind of shawl its manufacturing procedure and designs available...
Posted On : 3/26/2009 5:28:04 AM
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Phulkari is an embroidery technique from the state of Punjab. The term Phulkari literally means flower working. This term was once used as the word for embroidery, but eventually the word Phulkari became restricted to embroidered shawls and head scarfs. Simple and lightly embroidered odini head scarfs and shawls, made for everyday use, are called Phulkaris, whereas garments that cover the entire body, made for special and ceremonial occasions, are known as Baghs garden . Women all over Punjab wear Phulkaris and Baghs during marriage festivals and other joyous occasions. The women embroider these items for their own use and use of other family members and were not for sale in the market. Phulkaris and Baghs are also gifted to the brides at the time of marriages. Some best Phulkaris and Baghs are known to have been made in Hazara and Chakwal, areas of Northern Punjab. According to scholars, Phulkari has originated from Iran where it is known as Gulkari . Others say that it has come from Central Asia along with Jat tribes who migrated to India and settled in Punjab, Haryana and Gujarat. There is reference of Phulkari in Vedas, Mahabharat, Guru Granth Sahib and folk songs of Punjab. The present form of phulkari embroidery has been popular since the 15th century.
Maniam PS Reward Points : 256300 Member Since : Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Phulkari, an embroidery technique from the Punjab in India, literally means flower working, which was at one time used as the word for embroidery, but in time the word Phulkari became restricted to embroidered shawls and head scarfs. Simple and sparsely embroidered odini head scarfs and shawls, made for everyday use, are called Phulkaris, whereas garments that cover the entire body, made for special and ceremonial occasions, are known as Baghs garden . Phulkaris and Baghs were worn by women all over Punjab during marriage festivals and other joyous occasions. They were embroidered by the women for their own use and use of other family members and were not for sale in the market. Thus, it was purely a domestic art which not only satisfied their inner urge for creation but brought colour into day to day life. In a way, it was true folk art. Custom had grown to give Phulkaris and Baghs to brides at the time of marriages. Some best Phulkaris and Baghs are known to have been made in Hazara and Chakwal, areas of Northern Punjab. Some scholars feel that the art of Phulkari came from Iran where it is known as Gulkari . Some feel it came from Central Asia along with Jat tribes who migrated to India and settled in Punjab, Haryana and Gujarat. There is reference of Phulkari in Vedas, Mahabharat, Guru Granth Sahib and folk songs of Punjab. In its present form, phulkari embroidery has been popular since the 15th century. The main characteristics of Phulkari embroidery are use of darn stitch on the wrong side of coarse cotton cloth with coloured silken thread. Punjabi women created innumerable alluring and interesting designs and patterns by their skilful manipulation of the darn stitch. The base khaddar cloth used in Western Punjab is finer from those of Central Punjab. Black/blue are not preferred in Western Punjab, whereas white is not used in East Punjab. In West Punjab, 2 or 3 pieces of cloth are first folded and joined together. In East Punjab, they are joined together first and then embroidered. In Phulkari embroidery ornaments the cloth, whereas in Bagh, it entirely covers the garment so that the base cloth is not visible. The end portion of pallav of Phulkari have separate panels of exquisite workmanship of striking design. The most favoured colour is red and its shades, because Bagh and Phulkari are used during marriage and other festivals. Red is considered auspicious by Hindus and Sikhs. Other colours are brown, blue , black, white. White was used in Bagh by elderly ladies. Silk thread in strands came from Kashmir, Afghanistan and Bengal. The best quality silk came from China. No religious subject or darbar scenes were embroidered. Phulkari encompassed life in the villages. Creative ability of Punjabi women has produced innumerable and intricate geometrical patterns. However, most motifs were taken from everyday life. Wheat and barley stalk with ears are a common motif.
The phulkaris of Punjab are of two types, one carrying a regular row of stylized motifs either of flowers, fruits or birds and other carrying a rich repertoire of the folklore and motifs taken from everyday life. The centre often carries a stylized lotus form the two cross borders at the two cross borders at the ends carry rows of stylized lotus form, the two cross borders at the ends carry rows of stylized animals and bird forms, or flowers. The remaining surface is covered with a variety of motifs : a train on wheels carrying human forms, birds and animals rushing across the horizon, while peacocks move across the surface and strange mythical birds and animals mingle together in harmony.Madder brown, rust red or indigo are the usual background colours. The stitches are mainly in golden yellow or white or green. A few bright colours are introduced in the borders. Phulkari means flowering which creates a flowery surface. The stitch itself is the simple darning like the damask, done from the back, either by counting the threads or with the help of a thread line. This has to be done with unusual care for a single miss can throw out the whole pattern.The stitching is done with silk thread, though occasionally cotton threads in white and green are introduced and sometimes even woollen. A peculiarity of phulkari is that the fabric itself is used geometrically as an inner decoration, so that the medallions and diamonds, etc are not just patterns seem on but become an integrated combination of colours. This is only possible where absolute accuracy in thread country is observed. In bagh work the stitch is so refined that the embroidery becomes the fabric itself. The quality of the workmanship is measured by the smoothness at the back that can only result from the evenness of the stitches. he phulkari stitch derives its richness from the use of darning stitch placed in different directions - vertical, horizontal and diagonal. Embroidery is done from the wrong side. The pattern is controlled by counting of thread, but quite often the outline of pattern is embroidered on the cloth in green thread. The needle picks up only one thread at a time, so that the back of pattern is delineated with single lines of color in extremely fine stitches. In the front the stitch ranges from to cms in size.The stitching is done with silk thread, though occasionally cotton threads in white and green are introduced, and sometimes even woollen. A peculiarity of phulkari is that the fabric itself is used geometrically as an inner decoration, so that the medallions and diamonds, etc are not just patterns sewn on but become an integrated combination of colours, yellow and madder brown. This is only possible where absolute accuracy in thread counting is observed.
Phulkari is a traditional craft of Jammu and Kashmir. This craft had its origin in Punjab and later came to this region. The clothes featuring this embroidery are part of the gifts given by the bride s parent to her during wedding. This piece of clothing is usually worn over the traditional shirt by the women. As the name suggest, Phulkari is a style of embroidery of floral designs. The designs are not limited to flowers alone, but include a variety of other patterns such as birds, animals and scenes depicting village life. The color of the cloth used in this work is generally maroon, red or scarlet. The thread used for embroidery is made from silk usually golden, yellow, crimson red, blue or green colored. If the whole piece of cloth is embroidered, the phulkari work is called baag garden . If only the sides are embroidered, the work is called chope . Phulkari products range from handkerchiefs, sofa and cushion cover, table covers, bed-spreads to beautiful wall hangings.
Posted On : 4/9/2009 11:23:16 PM
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The popular colors used in making phulkari are golden, yellow, crimson, orange, green, blue and pink. You may get to see plenty of designs in geometrical as well as natural patterns. Among figures, prominently of flowers, leaves, birds, animals and of human are popular. The figures of vegetables, pots, buildings, rivers, sun and moon are also displayed quite often. The baghs carrying dhoop-chhaon sun-shade patterns are very popular all over Punjab. Similarly, Dhaniya bagh coriander , Motia Bagh jasmine , Satranga Bagh rainbow , Leheria Bagh wavy etc. are also very famous. Most sought after phulkaris are said to be Sainehi Phulkaris that carry the scenes of rural Punjab. Phulkari craft has played a significant role in defining the popular mood of Punjab. The phulkari designing and the scenes displayed on the clothes has been inspiration for various folk songs and other cultural activities. They show the feelings and emotions of the people. Phulkari done garments are exchanged in the familial ties essentially. It is said that bride when leaves for the house of groom, she is given many sets of Baghs to be worn in the in-law s home. They have some religious significance too. They are used as the canopy over the holy scripture of Sikhs, the Guru Granth Sahib.
Posted On : 4/10/2009 2:11:32 AM
Anamika Sen Reward Points : 287600 Member Since : Thursday, August 21, 2014
Where in West Bengal can I get dress materials of Phulkari work?
Posted On : 12/5/2016 3:23:37 AM
Writi Mitra Reward Points : 344900 Member Since : Saturday, March 21, 2015
Recently there was a trade fare at Kolkata where I found a stall selling Phulkari dress materials and dupattas. I asked for the price of a dress material and it was 3K. Why is Phulkari items so costly?